438 King’s Road,
London, SW10 OLJ
Tel. 020 7349 1900
Food type: Modern French
Nearest tube: Sloane Square/ Fulham Broadway (a bit of a walk from both)
Instead of posting regularly about my visits to Medlar, I have decided to do a monthly round-up of my meals there and the new dishes tried. As usual, I have popped in every fortnight or so and have managed to try most of the new dishes on the menu.
Of the new starters tried, my favourite was the Chicken Wings with Australian Black Truffles – the deboned crispy confit chicken wings were sat on top of a lovely fricassée of coco beans, corn and broad beans. Australian winter black truffles are a relatively new addition to the British dining scene and are completely different (and cheaper) than Perigord truffles and it added a lovely earthy note to balance the freshness of the dish.
Amongst the two fish dishes currently on the menu, the Red Mullet with Mussel Broth edges ahead slightly, especially paired with a nice glass of Barolo from their wine list. This was a lovely summer dish with a light, saline broth highlighting the fish cooking which was yet again excellent. The dish did however contain my nemesis ingredient fennel which was swiftly pushed to one side.
We also got to try one of their long-term classics which has received an update – their signature steak and chips now comes with beef shin and pickled walnut croquettes, alongside its usual garnishes. Although I appreciate that the croquettes are there to add another contrasting texture to the dish, for me it just made the overall composition of the dish too heavy. Also unlike the pork croquettes I have had here previously, the relative lack of fat made the croquettes themselves rather dry even with the ample amount of jus served with the dish. For me, this dish was perfect with snails cooked in cafe de paris butter as it worked to bring the beef alive without distracting from it.
Finally with desserts, even though my beloved honeycomb ice cream is currently off the menu, one of my seasonal favourites has made a return. The lovely blood peach sorbet is packed full of lovely peach flavour and now comes with some nougatine adding a little texture to the dish. On the side were some madeleines which are as good as any you will find in London. What is not to like with a simple dessert like this?
The cooking has been on a consistent footing throughout all my visits and I also got to try some interesting wines by the glass served via Coravin. Speaking of which, many congratulations to Clement Roberts who has added the title of ‘Master Sommelier’ to his expanding and impressive CV.
I can’t wait now until grouse goes back onto the menu later this month…