438 King’s Road,
London, SW10 OLJ
Tel. 020 7349 1900
Food type: Modern French
Nearest tube: Sloane Square/ Fulham Broadway (a bit of a walk from both)
My last couple of visits to Medlar has seen a few changes to their staff with the departure of two key members. Sylvain their restaurant manager has moved on to the maitre’d position at L’Ortolan (Reading) while their head sommelier Clement has taken up a buyer/ head sommelier role at 28-50. It is a huge shame to see the two of them leave and wish them all the best in their new endeavours. No doubt I will bump into them in the future.
A few of the seasonal classics have popped up on their menu. Grouse season sees their signature grouse with damsons and traditional garnishes make an appearance n the menu. The grouse served roasted sans the skin with the legs used to make the rich intense jus. Damsons proves an excellent addition to the plate with a little acidity to serve as the perfect foil for the richness of the grouse. It wouldn’t be a complete dish without bread sauce and in my opinion, Medlar does the best version I have tasted. For me, of all the grouse dishes eaten this year, the version at Medlar comes up trumps.
With the weather changing, the grouse dish has been replaced by an excellent dish of venison with choucroute. The venison loin is served very rare on top of a bed of well made choucroute. However, the best part of the dish is the venison rissole which does an excellent impression of a posh shish kebab. I could easily eat a whole plate of the rissoles washed down with a nice glass of Bordeaux.
On my latest visit, the team were kind enough to share with me a couple of preview dishes which will feature on their New Year’s Eve menu. Having dined here before on New Year’s Eve, where the restaurant atmosphere changes to one big party, I am pretty sure guests will be in for a treat with Joe’s latest creation of lobster salad with potatoes. The lobster is treated with the utmost respect and is beautifully tender but what I enjoyed most were the addition of cockles, an ingredient which does not get much love on restaurant menus.
Finally, if you haven’t tried it, then the Tarte Tatin here is a must. Joe uses Braeburn apples for his version of the tart which are caramelised with a lot of care and attention and the puff pastry having soaked up all the caramel. The portion size is certainly very generous even as a sharing portion for two people and we have yet to successfully finish a whole tart in one sitting.
Now all we need is for the potato & quail egg ravioli to make a return….