13 Albemarle Street,
London, W1S 4HJ.
Tel. 020 74091011
Food type: Modern Italian
Food rating: 6/10
Nearest tube: Green Park
I am finally back reviewing London restaurants. This month I aim to review some niche restaurants which has not received as much publicity as they should have ie. non-Michelin starred restaurants which serve up decent food. First up is Dol@da (which I will henceforth refer to as Dolada to save my short fingers severe cramps from reaching out towards the ‘Shift’ key). Never heard of it? Neither had I until I was reading some random news on caterersearch.com informing me that another foreign Michelin starred chef is plying his trade in London.
There was very little fanfare with the appointment of Riccardo de Pra as head chef at Dolada. The restaurant itself was formerly Mosaico but was renamed after the ristorante of the same name located in Pieve d’Alpago where de Pra’s family have plyed their trade for four generations. Despite the changes, the owners remains the same.
The de Pra family have a proud tradition with the Michelin man – Riccardo holds one star; his father, two and his grandfather, three. What impressed me though was not the number of stars they held but the passion they had for food. Here we are not talking about Gordon Ramsay style incessant harping about ‘local sourcing’ but producing their own cheese, smokes and cured meat. When a diner beside me asked a simple question about the provenence of the salami he was eating, they were not only able to tell him the exact place it was produced, but also the type of pig and impressively enough the DATE the salami was produced. Riccardo marries great produce with his inventive style of cooking. This is a man who invented ‘Tiramiglu’, a Tiramisu inspired drink that comes with its specially designed bottle containing the different layers of flavours that are the essence of the well known dessert.